Great wines for the season just before Fall
Great wines – We started off the fall in September feeling like it was July. In my mind, I was all set to start drinking bolder and comforting reds but continue the summer drill of crisps reds, roses and whites. By the end of this week, temperatures will be back for seasonal values. I will have plenty of recommendations to keep you happily drinking this fall.
Loire Gamay was my best antidote wine for the heatwave that we are passed through. Côtes d’Auvergne is an appellation that produces a range of white, rosé and red wines. The varieties permitted are Chardonnay, Gamay and Pinot Noir. The high altitude of the vineyards combined with the volcanic soil of the slopes of the allier river banks, produces fresh and crisp wines with subtle mineral nuances. If you are a Beaujolais fan, you will like the wines of this appellation well. Stock up some bottles for fall entertaining and thanksgiving dinner. You will not be disappointed
From Cotes d’Auvergne I tasted the wines from Vignobles Saint Verny. First, a pure Gamay rose that provided me solace from the scorching heat. The 7e ciel ( SAQ # 13343248, $17.40) was a fine thirst quencher for a much wanted aperitivo with its citrus and red berries undertones and refreshing acidity. Later on with a improvised supper of whole wheat spaghetti and breaded pangasius, I enjoyed L’Impromptu 2015 ( SAQ # 13343264, $20.55). A very exciting red wine, gamay as well, with bright aromas of black and red berries and packed with granite dust, liquorice and spice. On the palate, similar to a Fleurie Beaujolais, I enjoyed its flavours of roses and violets with easy going tannins.
Speaking of Gamay, It recently came to my attention, the Beaujolais artisan producer Clotaire Michal. After 5 years of working with legendary Thierry Allemand in the Rhone, he set up shop at the small village of Saint Etienne la Varenne at the Southern tip of Brouilly. His small estate sits in just over three hectares of old gamay vines with perfect Southern orientations The vineyards are comprised of pink granite and sand with a smattering of quartz. A magnificent terroir for this appellation. Clotaire works organically, harvest manually and employs just the right amount of sulphur for his wines.
His Beaujolais-Villages Vignes Centenaires 2015 is a magnificent Gamay with a Rhonish attitude. A seductive crunchy black fruit nose with nuances of peppercorns, dusted quartz and granite. On the palate, it is quite structured and racy. Mineral driven with a distinguished floral side bringing to mind dry violet petals and morel mushrooms. An intriguing meaty.Grippy tannins with a gracious finale. Available in the private import channel ( $36) via Jack Jacob of Glou Agency ( http://glou-mtl.com/)
I don’t eat too much red meat these days and even less when is it 40 C outside. This week, I also whipped up a quick supper of tuna croquettes served with a lightly spiced passata di pomodoro with a side dish of roasted peppers and edamame fettuccine. Defying wine conventions, I had the Centine Toscana IGT Rosso 2014 from Banfi ( SAQ # 00908285, $18.05).Love or hate Banfi, they have done a great deal for Italian wine, specially for Tuscany
I forgot how good the Centine was, since I did not taste for a long time. A blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with black cherry, spices and leather aromas. Elegant with savoury red fruit aromas and fine soft tannins, elevating the dish to a gentile status. Who says that you cannot red wine with fish?