Champagne: Bourdaire-Gallois – David Bourdaire crafts a little ruby of a Champagne close by the village of Pouillon. This picturesque village is one of a dozen, or so villages in the Massif Saint-Thierry, a group of undulating hills and forests that slope off toward the vast plain, northwest of the city of Reims. These are the limits of Champagne country and where the late bloomer Pinot Meunier finds its home.
David farms 8 hectares situated in and around the village of Pouillon.. This Massif is the northernmost part of the Champagne appellation and is home to some 900 hectares of vineyards which are spread throughout the dozen villages.The soils have a large portion of sandy clays which is reflected in these Champagnes
David’s family started bottling their champagnes in the early 2000’s when they left the coop that David’s grandfather founded in 1951. The vineyard is comprised of 85% Pinot Meunier, 10% Chardonnay and 5% Pinot Noir. The vines have an average age of 43 years with a few rows of Chardonnay planted at 11,000 plants per hectare that date back to 1923.
David practices organic viticulture. The vineyard is planted on low yielding root stocks and David grows natural grasses between the vine rows to further limit yields. He vinifies each parcel separately according to the specific rootstock porte-greffe. After years of adjusting the dosage level with each disgorgement, David has settled on finishing all of his Champagnes with no dosage at all.
I had the pleasure to meet David Bourdaire and taste his whole range of Champagnes in a recent tasting at La Chronique restaurant in Montreal. The invitation was a courtesy of its importer Pot de Vin in Quebec.
Champagne Bourdaire-Gallois:
Cuvee Tradition Brut – SAQ # 13430481, $49.75
( 234 cases available in 6 SAQ branches in a few weeks)
( 100 % Pinot Meunier)
Chalky and saline with nuances of country bread dough. A hint of flor and gooseberries. A slight hint of flor ( jerez wine). Dry with a nice pungent acidity and brine flavours on the palate. Long and complex with a dry fruit character in the finale. Racy and soulful Champagne. Will improve in the next 5-7 years.
The below cuvees can be found only via private import only via its agent Pot de Vin. They should be arriving by January 2020. Prices may be subject to change as a result of foreign exchange fluctuations. For more information, you may contact Jean Marie Robin 514.297.3747, jeanâ€marie@potdevin.ca
Cuvee Reserve – $69.23 ( 6 pack case)
( 40 % Pinot Noir, 40% Pinot Meunier, 20 % Chardonnay)
Floral with a more balsamic profile. Ground cherries, ripe plantain with a bit of fresh cut tobacco. And red fruits as well. With time in the glass nuances of ricola candy emerges. Richer and more rounder in the palate than the brut bottling. Mouthwatering acidity with a grapefruit white and roasted apple character Will need to cellar for another 5 years.
Cuvee Prestige – $75.49 ( 6 pack case) ( 40 % Pinot Meunier, 40 % Chardonnay, 20 % Pinot Noir)
Fantastic nose of lemon Brioche, bread pudding, cappuccino notes. On the palate, a bit austere at the moment with a razor edge acidity. Interesting smoky-roasted seaweed notes complemented by a peppery finale.
Cuvee Blanc de Blancs 2007 Vintage. Presented only for tasting purposes ( 100 % Chardonnay)
Bartlett pear with classic apple character complemented by eucalyptus, white mint and white pepper. Overall a very pleasant earthy side. Harmonious and quite elegant Champagne with a fine bubble. A savoury note recalling smoked fish.
Cuvee Rose – $72.39 ( 6 pack case) ( 100 % Pinot Meunier)
Fragrant red berry fruit with a hint of licorice. Sensual and subdued with a silky mouthfeel and oily texture.Flavors reminiscent of bitter orange peel and a hint of autumn leaves, blood orange and a seaweed finale.
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